We amble on our way again at just after 8 and make steady progress all morning until strangely, not having seen much boat movement all day come upon a queue at Colwich Lock that 'delays' us an hour. Ahead of us is a boat from a well known hire company with an engine that sounds like it wants to make a break for freedom - and that's at tick over. After listening to it rattling for what seems like 3 weeks we ask them about the possibility of turning it off whilst they are queuing and they dutifully oblige, adding the comment that the boatyard have told them that "it normally sounds like that". Wait over we ascend Colwich lock, Gt Haywood lock and then with a sense of trepidation we approach Hoo Mill - scene of the great Yule cruise turnaround last time we came this way. All is well and we end up stopping for the night at bridge 88 at around 6pm as a vulture - well possibly it was a buzzard - circled overhead.

Today we aim to be within striking distance of Stoke on Trent and aim to set off relatively early so at half past 8 we open the back doors only to be greeted by a definite 'slurping' noise and look over the non towpath side to find our new neighbour who has come down for a drink. Progress takes place at a traditionally sedate pace and we move on through Aston Lock, stop for water and then proceed through Star and Yard locks before mooring for a shop raid in Stone. Getting back on the move just after mid day we go through the Meaford 3 and smile at the very well made little houses for the stop planks. We stop for the night at Barlaston but after a while the inane chattering of the local youths (average age 11 going on 17) we move another mile further on into peace and tranquillity.

Loads of piccies today ! We set of before 8 with the intention of making the Caldon turn and getting clear of the urban clutter that is Stoke on Trent. We've been told that the early stretches of the Caldon are so dismal that many people turn around and go back but that it improves the further you go. We agree. Turning onto the Caldon at 11:30 we move on to Etruria staircase - Wow ! Damned deep - heavy middle gates. Planet lock, and Engine lock are dismal. Flotsam all over the place, untidy, unkept and certainly enough to make you think twice about carrying on. The canal then starts to redeem itself with a delightful little lift bridge and countryside that just gets better and better. As I recall bridge 16 seems to be the turning point and by 5:30 we've got as far as Hazelhurst junction having gone past a roundabout - actually all that remains of a long gone crane which in an attempt to photograph I hit..

We aim to make it to both ends of the Caldon so set off along the Leek arm, through a lovely tunnel and to a sign that warns us that we are too long to turn if we proceed any further. Seems a shame to miss out on the last 1/4 mile so we turn around and do what any sensible boater would do - reverse. Easier said than done, but done it we did. Dragged, poled and reversed all the way top the end, past a very confused and bemused moored boat who's crew clearly and accurately have us down as mad. But we made it. Set off back the way we came, turned right at Hazelhurst junction and then settled for the night just past the Hollybush Inn at 11pm. It was a bit too dark to take piccies of this so instead here's a pretty bridge to close today's report.

Made it as far as the Froghall tunnel. On the way we went under a gauge that hangs over the tail of lock 17 where we discover that we are far too high to get through the tunnel. We decide that even though we can't make the tunnel we will go as far as we can and continue along what is a truly stunning canal - easily a rival to the top end of the Llangollen for its unspoiled, hill clinging tranquility - there's not many folk get this far for sure.

We get to the tunnel and sure enough there's no chance of us getting through in Wych Way and we console ourselves in the knowledge that some years ago we did navigate this tunnel in a much smaller craft. We have to take Wych Way 'walkies' back to the winding hole and a tight turn for a 62 footer it is - needed ropes and poles to get her round.

Worthy of note are Cherry Eye bridge - no idea what the story behind the very pointed key stone is, and Consal Forge station, the platform of which is quite literally bolted to the side of the wall and overhangs the canal. The near by Black Lion pub is famous for having no road access.

We make our way back towards Stoke and settle for the night at the bottom of Stockton flight to dry out after a wet day.

The sun came out - and stayed out - all day ! We enjoyed a leisurely pootle down to the end of the Caldon where it meets with the Trent and Mersey, the last hour or so is as we said earlier, just plain ugly, but we assure you it was worth it. The staircase is much easier going down and wildlife abounds in the adjacent park as this Yellow Wagtail goes to prove. Once past the outskirts of Stoke on Trent the canal soon takes on the air of peace and timelessness that means so much to us. We make good progress through Stone and moor up just at the end of the very nice new moorings, share a loaf of bread with some swans and settle down for the night.